It’s All a Facade

Frigiliana. 

The prettiest village in Spain.  

Old town, new town. 

Tiny winding streets too steep and too narrow for cars. 

Houses cut into the side of the hillside fitting together  like a 3d jigsaw puzzle. 

Each seems to have a terrace.  Each it’s own tiny front door and sometimes garden.  Fig and orange trees cling precariously to unoccupied spaces and the scent of overflowing jasmine follows each step.

At first disorientating it is quickly possible to mind map the small town.  Overcoming Google’s confusion as thick walls and narrow passage ways defy three points of a satellite.

How quintessentially Spanish.  But is it real?

Reading through it’s vast and varied history, an excellent précis here, the local residency is as old as prehistory with the occupancy of nearby caves. 

Recently designed cobbled streets

Then came the Romans when spreading their empire.

Moors next,  with their Islamic culture, architecture and art. 

Of course it was the not so peaceful spread of Christianity which lead to the Moor’s demise.  On El Fuerta, the dominant back drop to the village, the massacre of around 8000 Islamic Moors took place.

Window boxes

Catholic Christians dominated until the Napoleonic wars took out a few.  Then the Civil War of the 30’s lead to demise of local churches with artefacts, destroyed by Republicans.  Eventually stability returned in the 50s but by then much of the population had left.  Things slowly stabilised with the growth of agriculture and more recently, tourism.  

Town vista

So now back to the ‘facade’.  

White has been used to paint houses in hot countries for several reasons.  Lime kills bugs.  It reflects heat, and apparently God knows that it is a Christian village if the houses are white. So will protect it.  But mostly, savvy mayors want to win the local ‘best town competition’ and what is better than a nicely painted village with intricate cobbles on the floor!

Narrow Streets of Frigiliana

And yes, he won!  

After all would tourists flock to see dirty grey houses with dirt streets?

No matter.  It has served its purpose.  I was certainly drawn in and it is a delightful place to be.  Sunshine, clean air and mountains.  Not much could be better.  A week of sunshine pottering about in the hills and valleys. Evenings are chilly, it’s March, but days are perfect for walking.

More about the walks will follow.  

I stayed here