Black Sail and Beyond

Tucked away in the Ennerdale Valley,
its diminutive size dwarfed by Pillar to the south and the High Stile ridge standing across the valley, is Black Sail ‘Hut’.

Now a hostel run by the YHA. 

Some what iconic in the world of UK hostels it was somewhere I’d never stayed and rarely viewed. 

So when I had a spare few days in August it was the first choice for a ‘staycation’.

We walked in, a bike being our only other option, from Honister.  Crossing the detritus of the slate mines and by another tiny bothy.  There’s a bit of a rats’ nest of tracks between Fleetwith and Grey Knotts.   The track we followed down to Ennerdale via Loft Beck can be picked up close to the bothy, but  it’s a bit bland and green.  Instead we headed towards Haystacks, where there are a few more interesting lumps and bumps and a view down to Buttermere, if you’re lucky.

An offshoot from the path down Loft Beck ends abruptly and without apparent reason,  just south of Blackbeck Tarn.  It’s easy to pick up by following one of the infill streams, and we were fairly soon negotiating the stepped track down to Ennerdale valley.

Black Sail remains hidden until you almost fall over it. This has to be the jewel in the crown for the YHA.  As those who stay there will be a self-selecting breed, you have to hope they are of like mind.  We were lucky and both cook and companions were  were as delightful as the place.  As was the weather!  Rain threatened by the forecasters mercifully lost its way despite this being one of the wettest places in the UK.

Each evening the cloud toyed with the top of Gable and Windy Gap before settling on a soft warm glow in which we sat.  4G has not permeated the valley and sockets are in limited supply, so the periphery of the hut was soon littered with ‘guests’ just enjoying the moment.

Pillar punctuate our stay.  A much quicker hike up Black Sail Pass than from Wasdale, or the far end of Ennerdale. 

The ridge line from Black Sail passes over Scoat Fell towards Haycock.   It was impossible not to stop and stare at hazy hills rolling away in all directions on such a beautiful day. 

Unusually we had Pillar to ourselves.

Dropping down to the western end of Ennerdale valley there is no option but to negotiate the monoculture green planted in less enlightened days by the Forestry Commission.  We dropped down, somewhat off piste, just before Haycock.   There is a ‘rewilding Ennerdale’ project underway but it’s a slow process and you’ll have to delve through the dark of plantation to find a forest track back to Black Sail.

After another night in Black Sail, and a trip outside to see the stars in the dark sky, it was time to head north west to Buttermere.  I’d hike the High Stile Ridge a couple of times before.  Once on the Coast to Coast, in thick mist.  Then a couple of years ago, in an attempt to ‘see’ the ridge.  Failed.  Mist again. 

Third time lucky I had winter images a few months later.  Thankfully the weather held and this time I was to savour summer views, see where I was going and more.

We headed up via Scarth Gap, missing out Haystacks.  Over the lump of Seat before High Crag to High Stile, looming, in turn steeply ahead.

Each peak so different in its geological detritus

The strata of High Stile a complete contrast to the scree of Red Pike.

A long summer day stretched on and there seemed little point in leaving the ridge in the early afternoon, so we followed the green curve down and over Starling Dodd.  Its random sculpture respectfully blending in the red of the rock.  Another hill I only previously done when in battle with the elements. 

Another off piste ramble to pick up the track along the shore of Crummock Water.  Wandering through what was left of the day to the YHA in Buttermere.

Eventually we had to return to cars and life left behind at Honister.  There are a few choices of track from Buttermere.  There is even a bus, should the weather be so inclined.  As it wasn’t we made an early start and took the lake shore route on the northern side.

Rain and clouds were threatened but the weather lingered for a leisurely walk and breakfast on the shore.  Disappointingly there were several campers there, not taking notice of the guidelines set by the National Park.  Camping outside the intake boundary and being there after first light.  Please read the guidelines here.

Fleetwith Pike can be ‘bagged’ with relative ease from Honister.  But it’s kind of cheating, so I needed to head up from the start.  The nose affords beautiful views and though hosting a few scrambles,

it’s perfectly doable and makes reaching the summit cairn all the more satisfying.

And that was it.  All that remained was the trudge back to the slate mine.  Passing those who’d completed the via ferrata en route. 

Below are the routes we took, also available on ViewRanger

Honister to Black Sail –

 

  

 

 

Pillar round –

 

 

 

 

Black Sail to Buttermere –

 

 

 

 

 

 

Buttermere to Honister Via Fleetwith –